The Madness Begins | Kumano Kodo Family Hiking Trip - Day 1 (Tanabe to Chikatsuyu)
This was the holiday of a lifetime. A potential recipe for disaster or greatness, which would it be?
My parents got divorced when I was 10 so how will everyone get on doing this challenging trek through the mountains of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.
Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi pilgrimage trail (May 14-16, 2019)
On day 1, still suffering a bit from jet lag, we had no problem waking up prior to 5 am in Kii-Tanabe. We ate breakfast as quietly as possible so as not to wake the young English couple, Tim and Katie, who were sleeping in the adjacent room. We caught the 6.25 am bus to Takijiri-oji and were joined in departing the bus at Takijiri-oji by Michelle, from Australia, after paying our 970 yen fare. The current exchange rate is approximately 110 yen/1 US$. The “tourist buses” in Japan aren't cheap. We were the only people who departed the bus at this stop. Michelle might have stayed on the bus if it wasn't for us. I only knew to get off because I was following our route on my phone. The driver, Patsy said, did say Takijiri, but I never heard her. The stop wasn't signed and Patsy didn't want to press the bell because she figured everyone would be getting off here. I thought so too, but I pressed the bell just to be safe. Good thing too, as everyone else was taking the bus all the way to Hongu Taisha. Had I not pressed the bell we'd presumably have kept on going. We stamped our credentials (pilgrim passports) at the start of the trail and were soon joined by Michelle who'd stopped at Takijiri to get a cup of tea. At one of the oji (shrines) I was surprised to see her stamping her Australian passport. Didn't you get a credential? I asked her. She really thought she was supposed to stamp her regular passport. It began to rain around 10 am, very lightly at first, but the intensity increased as the day wore on. We stopped at a Michi-no-Eki store for a bite to eat and made it to our Ryokan for the night, Sakura-no-Sono in Chikatsuyu, at 2 pm in the pouring rain. 20,800 yen for the night including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Even though it was early afternoon we were really glad to be able to escape the rain. After showering our hostess showed us how to dress in a Yukata and this is the garment we wore to dinner. Patsy had to explain to me how to use the shower as I'd never come across one like it before. We were meant to shower directly onto the bathroom floor. At dinner we were joined by an Australian couple and a young Canadian guy who were also staying here, in the annex. It was a very pleasant evening to end our first day on the Kumano-Kodo. Outside it was pouring rain when we made our way back from the annex to the house.
On the morning of day 2 we were presented with a bento (lunch) box and led by our host to a nearby cafe where we “enjoyed” the smallest breakfast ever. We walked from Chikatsuyu to Yunomine Onsen via the Akagi-goe route, at first bypassing, then later crossing, a tornado-damaged section of the trail. At Hosshinmon-oji Michelle continued to Hongu Taisha. We, however, set off for the Akagi-goe route that led directly to Yunomine onsen where we were going to spend the next 3 nights at the J-Hoppers hostel. J-Hoppers cost a more reasonable 7,860 yen per night and included cooked rice, tea, and drip-coffee. We brought 3 dehydrated dinners with us, not knowing what food we might be able to purchase at Yunomine onsen. We wouldn't have starved although the food selection wasn't great. The small store across the street from the Tsubo-yu onsen had a selection of snacks, bananas and yogurt that were reasonably priced. J-Hoppers also had a selection of food items.
On day 3 we made a 13 mile, with 3,150' gain, loop, reversing the Akagi-goe route as far as Hosshinmon-oji. From there we made our way to Hongu Taisha along the busiest section of trail. Many people evidently walk only the section of trail between Hosshinmon-oji and Hongu Taisha in order to earn their Kumano-Kodo stamp. We ran into an REI tour group which, if we were to have joined, would have cost us $14,000 for 11 days (excluding airfare). We wouldn't have had nearly as much exercise either. They were walking less than 5 miles, and climbing less than a thousand feet, per day. To be members of a guided tour group in Japan a couple can expect to pay approximately $1,300 per day, $500 per day for a self-guided tour organized by a travel company, or $250 per day for a self-guided, self-organized tour. After spending some time at Hongu Taisha we made our way back to Yunomine Onsen via the Dainichi-goe route that was really steep, both on the ascent and on the descent.
At Hongu Taisha we stamped our credentials with the Kumano-Kodo completion stamp. This works on the honor system as it's self-serve and no one actually checks whether or not you've done one of the qualifying routes, of which there are several. (1) Walk from Takijiri-oji all the way to Hongu Taisha, which is what we did, (2) walk from Nachi Taisha to Hongu Taisha, (3) walk from Koyasan to Hongu Taisha, which is what we'll be doing next, or (4) the physically easiest is to walk from Hossinmon-oji to Hongu Taisha and also pay a visit to Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha.
Yunomine Onsen: Kumano Kodo How-to Series
This video overviews the sites and history of Yunomine Onsen, a tiny hot spring settlement along the Kumano Kodo near the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. Kumano Kodo: How-to Series.
From Wakayama to Kii Tanabe
Kumano Hongu Taisha annual festival
The Kumano Hongu Taisha spring festival is held April 13th to 15th every year, a quintessential festival of Kumano. It is intimately associated with the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route.
On April 13th fathers and their young sons purify themselves in the sacred waters of Yunomine Onsen before walking over the Dainichi-goe section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route to Oyunohara wearing traditional costumes. The young boys have the character for big 大written on their forehead and are forbidden to touch the ground having been imbued with the gods.
April 15th is the main day of the festival when the Kumano Deities are invoked to temporarily take up residence a portable mikoshi shrine and returned to their original site of descent, Oyunohara. It is carried with great pomp and circumstance on the shoulders of 20 to 30 people.
It is an exciting event as the mikoshi is spun and tossed in the air as it makes its rounds purifying the village. At Oyunohara various rituals and celebrations take place, including fire rituals by Yamabushi and mochi rice cake scramble.
The atmosphere is serene, traditional, authentic and inspiring. If you are interested in experiencing a traditional festival in the quiet, spiritual mountains of Kumano, then this is the festival for you.
Kogumotori-goe Trailhead: Kumano Kodo How-to Series
The Kogumotori-goe is a section of the Kumano Kodo south of Hongu, leading to the small Koguchi settlement. This video explains how to get to the trailhead, specifically from Yunomine Onsen. Kumano Kodo: How-to Series.
Kawayu Onsen: Kumano Kodo How-to Series
Kawayu Onsen is a natural wonder where hot spring waters bubbles to the surface of the river. It is near the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine and popular with walkers on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. Kumano Kodo: How-to Series.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail Day 1: Hotel Kiri-no-sato in Takahara, Japan
I announced, Two sweaty Americans are here and staggered into the glare of a television video crew in Hotel Kiri-no-sato. Owner John translated for the Japanese-speaking crew who probably thought we were insane. But who knows. Perhaps our moment of glory isn't on the cutting room floor.
Who would expect such a nice place in small Takahara?
Tsuboyu Bath: Kumano Kodo How-to Series
Tsuboyu is a small rock hot spring bath in Yunomine Onsen and intimately connected to the Kumano Kodo. This video explains the history and how to bathe. Kumano Kodo: How-to Series.
The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail with Giaan Rooney
Giaan Rooney treks the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail in Wakayama prefecture, Japan, filled with ancient shrines, temples, breathtaking nature and traditional Japanese culture along the way.
The Kumano Kodo Trail is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage Listed pilgrimage walks.This Mystical area encompasses spiritual Koyasan and the Kumano Sanzan, the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano which are Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Join Olympian and television personality, Giaan Rooney, as she walks in the footsteps of pilgrims past and present.
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Video #17 - Takijiri-oji to Takahara-oji
Check out the entire trip, Takijiri-oji to Takahara-oji:
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5 Days on the Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) - day by day
I spent five days on a pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo, an ancient pilgrimage route in the Wakayama Province in Japan. It was such an amazing journey.
To find out more details about my trip you can visit my blog:
To find out more about this great route, you can visit It is the official website.
I took the Nakahechi Route from Tanabe over Hongu to Nachi. It was the most popular with ancient pilgrims. The great thing about this route is that there are so many relics from the ancient times. You can really get a feeling how it was to do this pilgrimage a few hundred years ago!
I have made different edits of my experience. This edits' focus lies on following the chronological order of the journey.
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Music:
At Rest - Romance from Kevin MacLeod
Slow times over here from Midnight North
Plenty Step from Freedom Trail Studio
Cylinder Four from Chris Zabriskie
Heaven and Hell from Jeremy Blake
Immorality from Aakash Gandhi
Kumano Hongu Taisha: Kumano Kodo How-to Series
The Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of the three Grand Shrines of Kumano and a destination on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. This video is an overview of the shrine grounds, including symbols such as the sacred Yatagarasu crow. Kumano Kodo: How-to Series.
Explore Japan - Kumano Kodo Trail
Story Title: The Kumano Kodo Trail
Episode: 6
Broadcast Date: 25th January 2014
Presenter: Trevor Cochrane & Kim Syrus
Walk the ancient Kumano Kodo Trail to experience the unique cultural landscape of Kumano's spiritual countryside.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail Day 4: Minshuku Momofuku in Koguchi, Japan
An easier portion of Kumano Kujdo Trail would have begun in Ukegawa today, accessed by public transportation. But bus didn't leave from Yunomine until 2p, onsens throw guests out at 10a and then what to do?
Solved that by just ordering a taxi to little Koguchi and Minishuku (a Japanese guest house) run by the nicest retired couple. The food portions were gigantic and delicious.
熊野古道-Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes (Nakahechi)
The trail begins across National Road #311 from Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Michi-no-Eki rest stop. First you will be able to see the image of the small Gyuba- Doji in the trail. This statue shows Kazan, one of the first abdicated emperors to pilgrimage to Kumano, sitting on a horse and cow. And, the next Oji ─ Chikatsuyu-Oji is located in Chikatsuyu Village. Next section follows the old road through Chikatsuyu Village along the south side of Mt.Takao, gradually climbing over 200 meters in elevation.
In the shrine grove of Tsugizakura-oji are the massive Nonaka-no-Ipposugi cedar trees. The shrine grove and its old-growth trees were saved from destruction by Minakata Kumagusu during the early 20th century.
熊野古道 中辺路 伏拝王子 Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes Fushiogami-oji 2017年11月
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes
The Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage network is the most popular trail to Kumano and has been used extensively since the 10th century, when Japan's Imperial ancestors first began the tradition.
The classic pilgrimage circuit began in Kyoto at Jonan-gu shrine. From here, pilgrims took a boat down the Yodo-gawa River to Osaka, where they began their journey south to Tanabe. In Tanabe the trail turns east onto the Nakahechi route, which cuts deep into the heart of the mountains.
Takijiri-oji, one of the many Oji shrines, marks the entrance into the realm of Kumano and is a popular starting point for modern-day pilgrims. Takijiri-oji to Tsugizakura-ojipasses through the communities of Takahara and Chikatsuyu. From Tsugizakura-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha there are many ups and downs on the trail before arriving at the shrine. Dainichi-goe and Akagi-goe are routes running through Yunomine Onsen, a hot spring with 1800 years of history used for hot water ablution rites.
After paying tribute at Kumano Hongu Taisha, pilgrims travelled by boat down the Kumano-gawa River to Kumano Hayatama Taisha. A visit to Kumano Nachi Taisha completed the pilgrimage. On the return journey to Kyoto, pilgrims either retraced their steps or took the mountainous Ogumotori-goe and Kogumotori-goe passes to Hongu.
Fushiogami-oji
fushiogami-oji-2.jpgFrom the lookout point at Fushiogami-oji, pilgrims finally get their first glimpse of their goal, the Kumano Hongu Taisha. Pilgrims traditionally fell on their knees and prayed, which is what the word “Fushiogami” means. At the lowest point in the valley lies Oyunohara, the holy sandbank where the Kumano Hongu Taisha was originally located until a flood destroyed it in 1886. The salvaged remains were used to rebuild the shrine on higher ground.
There is a story that took place here at Fushiogami-oji that epitomizes Kumano. Around 1000 years ago Izumi Shikibu, a famous female poet, was on pilgrimage and started to menstruate at Fushiogami-oji. Purification is an important element in Japanese religion and blood is considered impure, so women who were menstruating were not allowed to worship. She was terribly distraught at not being able to pay homage and composed a poem in her distress.
patrimoine mondial route de pèlerinage « Kumano Kodô Iseji » ～Série vidéo 1
●Kumano Kodo Iseji site officiel
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●Kumano Kodo Iseji page spéciale
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熊野古道 Kumano Kodo(World Heritage) Nakahechi Route
数年かけてあたためていた熊野古道ウォーキング計画。やっと実現しました。
一番人気という中辺路を５日間かけて歩き、紀伊半島を横断する計画です。
スタート地点の紀伊田辺駅で押印帳を入手し、旅の楽しみが一つ増えました。
旅のハイライトは４日目の大雲取越でした。
苔むした石段と杉並木の続く道を一歩一歩進んでいきます。
「これぞ熊野古道」とイメージしていた景色が続きます。
I have been planning on hiking on the Kumanokodo trail for these several years.
Finally, I made it. It was to take Nakahechi, the most popular trail to pass through
the Kii peninsula for five days. At the Kiitabe train station which is the trail head,
I got a stamp notebook. It made my adventure more exciting.
BGM：予感=スティクスイース/フェルガナの誓い/Copyright© Nihon Falcom Corporation
The Kumano Kodo
Takijiri oji to Takahara , Takahara to Nonaka , bus to Hongu Taisha
Typhoon broke trail,Yunomine, Kyoto