istanbul street food | turkish ice cream maraş dondurması - Ultimate Prankster | turkey street food
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Dondurma (literally Turkish for freezing) is the name given to ice cream in Turkey and Azerbaijan. Dondurma typically includes the ingredients milk, sugar, salep, and mastic. It is believed to originate from the city and region of Maraş and hence also known as Maraş Ice Cream.
Two qualities distinguish Turkish ice cream: texture and resistance to melting, brought about by inclusion of the thickening agents salep, a flour made from the root of the Early Purple Orchid, and mastic, a resin that imparts chewiness.
The Kahramanmaraş region is known for maraş dondurması, a variety which contains distinctly more salep than usual; tough and sticky, it is sometimes eaten with a knife and fork.
Dondurma is commonly sold from both street vendor's carts and store fronts where the mixture is churned regularly with long-handled paddles to keep it workable. Vendors often tease the customer by serving the ice cream cone on a stick, and then taking away the dondurma with the stick by rotating it around, before finally giving it to the customer. This sometimes results in misunderstandings among customers unfamiliar with the practice.
As of 2010, the average rate of consumption in Turkey was 2.8 liters of ice cream per person per year[2] (compared to the USA at 18.3 liters per person in 2007, and world consumption leader New Zealand at 22–23 liters in 2006[3]).
Some Turks adhere to a belief that cold foods, such as ice cream, will cause illnesses - such as sore throats and the common cold; it is held that consumption of warm liquid while consuming ice cream will counteract these effects.
The popularity of salepli dondurma has caused a decline of wild orchids in the region and led to a ban on exports of salep.[4]
Dondurma is also consumed in Greece, especially in the north of the country, where it is called Dudurmas or Kaimaki.
Because of its sinewy texture, Maraş Ice Cream (which is nicknamed after the southern central province of Turkey where it was born) is frequently hung on meat hooks when it is first prepared -- in the ice cream parlours of its 'home town'. And, customer orders are filled using a butcher knife -- and a full-measured whack that results in a generous chunk of the 'cold and delicious'... which the customer then eats with a sharp knife and fork!
Turks like to say that the Maraş-style ice cream is unique in the world and, I suppose, it's hard to argue the point -- though, from the standpoint of texture at least, Hershey's Ice Cream in the States has a curious resemblance to it. But since Turks have been making Maraş in Anatolia a lot longer than Hershey in Pennsylvania (about 300 years longer, by any reasonable estimate), I only mention that curiosity in passing.
The 'beaten' ice cream of Kahramanmaraş is made with salep, finely ground dried tubers of locally-found wild orchids -- the ingredient that provides creamy smoothness and that makes the ice cream chewy. It also causes the ice cream to be enormously dense and slow to melt. So it's very flexible until frozen -- at which point it becomes as hard as a rock.
You can find Maraş in it's best and purest form by visiting the province of Kahramanmaraş -- and eating it on the spot where the stuff actually originated. If you can do that, you'll enjoy an ice cream-lovers treat that's enhanced by the ambiance of the colorful cultural setting.
But, if you don't mind the loss of 'birthplace' ambiance, you can also find Maraş these days in all the big Turkish cities -- made from ingredients sent in from Kahramanmaraş, of course. It's available in independent ice cream parlours and from ice cream parlour chains, such as the Mado chain of parlours (headquartered in the namesake city of Kahramanmaraş) -- which has franchised parlours throughout the country.
And also these days, you can often find it locally, in boxed form, in the frozen-foods section of many Turkish supermarkets -- produced by companies like Algida.
But, we'd recommend that you give the boxed variety a miss -- unless you're really hard up to try it. It's a wholly unsatisfactory product.
In the first place it's in hard-as-rock form when you buy it -- and you can't eat it with gusto until you thaw it for at least 20 minutes.
But, boxed like that, it doesn't thaw evenly. So if you set it out before you want to eat it, you end up with melted mush on the outside, still rock-solid on the inside.
Secondly, the flavors of the boxed Maraş that I've tried (like Maraş Usulü Sade and Maraş Usulü Antepfıstığı are quite unremarkable -- disappointing renditions of the original recipes. They even taste a little perfume-y... which spells doom for an ice cream flavor in my view.
So if a trip to Kahramanmaraş isn't on your current itinerary, your next best bet is to make your way to a reputable 'big city' Maraş Ice Cream parlour. I think you'll be glad if you do... even if you're not ice-cream-mad, like I am.
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