Yumeorinosato silkworks, Amami Oshima tsumugi silk pongee
Silk making in Amami - some footage from our trip late last year.
本場奄美大島紬 Amami Oshima Tsumugi - An authentic and unique silk pongee - (preview)
本場奄美大島紬
Amami Oshima Tsumugi
- An authentic and unique silk pongee -
大島紬は、ペルシャ絨毯、ゴブラン織りと並ぶ世界三大織物とされています。
約1300年前、奈良時代から存在し、現在では鹿児島県内各地で製造されていますが、そのルーツは奄美大島にあるため、正式には「本場奄美大島紬」と呼ばれています。
奄美の自然が生み出す鉄分豊富な泥が可能にする泥染めは、絹糸を美しく、光沢を帯びた黒色へと染めていきます。
1000万以上の点の集合体から描かれる精緻でグラフィカルな絣模様は、平織り特有のリバーシブル。
製造期間半年以上、40にもおよぶ工程からつくられる本場奄美大島紬は、唯一無二の特徴を持っています。
海のシルクロードと言われる奄美が生み出すスピリチュアルなテキスタイル、本場奄美大島紬の魅力に、ぜひ触れてみてください。
Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee is known as one of the worlds’ top three textiles, along with Persian carpets and Gobelin tapestries.
It is said to have existed since approximately 1,300 years ago, from the Nara Period in Japan, and although today, it is being produced in various areas of Kagoshima Prefecture, because its roots originate in Amami Oshima, it is formally called the “authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee”
Dyed in mud, which is made possible only in the iron rich mud born from Amami’s nature, silk threads are dyed into a beautiful, glossy black.
Fine graphical splash patterns drawn by a mass of over 10 million dots, is reversible, which is characteristic of plain weave.
Taking over six months to make one bolt of fabric, through a creative process of 40 processes, an authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee has nonpareil unique characteristics.
I will continue to transmit the attractions of the authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee, a spiritual textile created in Amami, known as the Silk Road of the Ocean.
[本場奄美大島紬ブランド確立プロジェクト]
事業主体： 奄美大島商工会議所
共同事業者： 龍郷町商工会／株式会社夢おりの郷／ 有限会社前田紬工芸／株式会社大島紬村／株式会社都成織物／有限会社はじめ商事
支援： 奄美市／龍郷町／紬組合／紬販売組合
＊本プロジェクトは、経済産業省中小企業庁による補助金事業「JAPANブランド育成支援事業」の一環として実施しております。
[Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee Branding Project]
Commissioning Entity: Amamioshima Chamber of Commerce and Industry
Joining Entities: Tatsugo-cho business and industry society / Yumeorinosato Co., Ltd. / Maedatsumugikougei Ltd. / Ooshima Tsumugimura Co., Ltd. / Tonariorimono Co., Ltd / Hajime Shoji Inc. /
Support: Amami City / Tatsugo Town / Honba Amami Ooshimatsumugi Cooperative Association / Honba Amami Oshima Tsumugi Marketing Cooperative Association
*This project is being carried out as a part of the “JAPAN BRAND Development Assistance Program”, a grant-in-aid project of the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, Small and Medium Enterprise Agency.
Murayama-Oshima Tsumugi
OshimaTsumugi (textured silk pongee), a syn- onym for a high-quality silk fabric, is produced on Amami-0shima Island. Murayama-Oshi- maTsumugi brand fabric is made from raw silk, like OshimaTsumugi, and is produced in the Musashimurayama City area of Tokyo. Where- as production of OshimaTsumugi requires time‐consuming mudding of the silk, Muraya- ma-OshimaTsumugi only uses the established Itajime (board-caught) dyeing method to apply the design using boards with engraved patterns. A reasonably priced type of Kimono with a similar texture to that of OshimaTsumugi had been produced for general sale. Its most outstanding feature is a range of delicate Kasuri (splashed) patterns. Kasuri is a technique for creating woven patterns through a process of precise thread bun- dling of the dyed warp and woof to make patterns. This creates a smooth texture of the fiber threads, which is comfortable and does not stick to the wearer’s skin. Its light weight means that it can be worn without fatigue for long periods. Specifically, Murayama-OshimaTsumugi for men has fine Ka- suri patterns and conveys an impression of simple good taste through its intricacy when viewed close up and plainness from a longer view. Meanwhile, design is important in women’s garments and the stylish patterns and colors are suitable for any age. To assure the high quality of Murayama-OshimaT- sumugi, certification stamps are only granted to those products that use traditional techniques and materials accepted by Governor and pass stringent inspection based on 28 criteria, including length, weight, absence of flaws, etc.
Oshima Tsumugi looming machine
The First Weaving of Oshima Tsumugi Shimebata
奄美大島の旅。大島紬村で息子と機織り体験。Weaving workshop with my son at Oshima Tsumugi village
大島紬村
図案をデザインする。
締機（しめばた）が木綿糸で仮織りする。
木綿糸をとって、化学染料で色付け。（昔は化学染料はなかった）
シャリンバイで糸を泥染めする。
手機（てばた）でタテ・ヨコ絣をカスリ合わせて織り上げる。
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The Second Weaving of Oshima Tsumugi
KASURI 1 -- OSHIMA TSUMUGI
KASURI OSHIMA TSUMUGI 1964
【伝統工芸：結城紬】Yuki-tsumugi
Hello. I’m Chiaki Tanaka.
I’m coming here “Tusumugi museum”. Tsumugi is one of Japanese traditional crafts and registered UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
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What’s is Yuki Tsumugi”？
The origin of Japanese silk goods. The highest peak of cloth.
The best feature of “Yuki tsumugi” is thread which spun out from floss silk.
Floss silk made by boiled silkworm is very soft and warm because it includes lots of air. It is very comfortable and nature friendly raw materials.
By spunning out the thread with human's hands from floss cotton, it will be ready of the top quality which does not damage the goodness of the material completed.
It is only “Yuki tsumugi” that use spun thread in Japan, This is why “Yuki tsumugi” as treated as highest peak of silk goods. And also this have been fascinated so many people from ancient times.
Subscribe to my channel! ⇒
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I think the services in Japan called “omotenashi” is only natural for us born and raised and live in Japan.
I would like to spread this Japanese sprits “omotenashi” to the world with “Japanese traditional crafts” and “services”.
I’m very interested in the world and went to USA, Israel, Mexico inspired how could I do for Japan and other countries.
This project is the first step for me.
I do feel that people lost the heart to think “love” in this generation occupied social net work.
There were merchants in “Omi” called “Omi shonin”(Omi merchants” played active around Japan in the Middle Ages. They said “Business will be ‘Sanpo Yoshi”. It means ‘Benefit for all the sides.Purchaser, Buyer, Society. I think this is right.
People increased that become violent by words, because people forget to love other people.
I think there are too much things in the world now a days,
I met so many engineer in the world and they say “There are no more new thing will be born.”.
Maybe we need to be back to the origin.
“Human made the gap between the rich people and poor people.
Why can we exist? Because there are an earth and nature.
I think we need to thank to the natures and think how can we do for that.
What we are required is to get back human spirits and hearts in the world surrounded by desires.
I want this new project will be a good stimulus for you.
I will tell you about the spirits from Japanese traditional crafts. That is the origin of services.
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ENCOUNTER
A staff member from Ushikubi Silk dresses a staff member of The Art of Travel in an Ushikubi Silk kimono. (
Brought to the Mt. Hakusan region in 1159 by members of the exiled Genji Clan, Ushikubi Tsumugi caught on with the locals, who used the technique to produce their own fabric. What makes Ushikubi silk so unusual are the tamamayu, or cocoons shared by two silkworms. The cloth produced by these cohabitants is elastic and light and a distinctive nubby texture. Once the silk has been spun, natural dyes are used to produce a spectrum of hues both strong and subtle. Experience this with The Art of Travel:
[The Mark of Beauty] Season 1 EP02 : Tsumugi Kimono 2012 04 26
[The Mark of Beauty] Season 1 EP02 : Tsumugi Kimono 2012-04-26 This new-style art program provides lucid, 3-step insights into things of beauty around us.
[The Mark of Beauty] Season 1 EP07 : Summer Kimonos 2012-08-23 This episode focuses on summer kimonos. The elegant traditional attire even looks cool on .
[The Mark of Beauty] Season 1 EP05 : Linen 2012-06-28 Linen is standard for smart summer dressers in kimonos or suits. An age-old material, it is the fabric that .
Philosophy of Tsumugi : The World of Fukumi Shimura
Fukumi Shimura is a dyeing and weaving artist who won the 2014 Kyoto Prize. This visual and sound installation portrays as beautiful her view of the world. The film was presented originally at the Kyoto Prize Workshop in Arts and Philosophy in Kyoto on November 12, 2014 and also at the Kyoto Prize Symposium in San Diego on March 19, 2015.
2015 Handcock Fellow Lecture: Reiko Sudo
2015 HANCOCK FELLOW: REIKO SUDO LECTURE
Reiko Sudo is the Artistic Director of renowned Japanese textile producer, NUNO Corporation. She has pioneered 'techno-textiles' - a rich intersection between traditional artisan techniques and industrial design processes.
Since 1984, NUNO has worked with over 50 weaving and dyeing centres throughout Japan to create unique textiles. Throughout this period, NUNO's textiles have garnered acclaim worldwide and been selected for inclusion in many museum collections.
Reiko delivered a lecture exploring how NUNO’s approach to textiles has changed over the decades and promises to continue changing toward the future. In the gallery NUNO designers’ sketches and test samples are displayed, highlighting their interaction with local Japanese artisans and demonstrating the processes and work that goes into creating every textile.
SILK vintage cloth for kimono made in japan
説明
Cherry trees, Tanaka-isson road 田中一村ロードの桜
Cherry trees, Tanaka-isson road 田中一村ロードの桜
OKITAMA TRADITIONAL CRAFT④【Shirataka Pongee（Shirataka Town）】
Shirataka Tsumugi pongee is hand-crafted carefully, from the selection of raw materials to the completion of the finished product, by a single artisan.
(Shirataka Tsumugi pongee originated in Shirataka Town, which is located in the southern part of the prefecture, with a population of about 15,000)
Shirataka Tsumugi pongee, like Nagai Tsumugi pongee, originated during the reign of the feudal lord Uesugi. He encouraged the people to change their local economy from the production of raw textile materials such as Aoso and safflowers to the production of silk fabrics, an industry which also made the region self-sufficient. Similar to the Nagai region, Yoneryu-kasuri fabric has been woven in the Shirataka district since the mid-Meiji period (1870s). However, during the late Meiji period (1900's), Shirataka Tsumugi pongee established its own unique style of dyeing by introducing the Itajime technique. This technique, learned from engineers from Ashikaga City in Tochigi Prefecture, features various patterns created by pressing piled threads on the washboard, resulting in a sensitive Kasuri pattern.
The Shirataka region still today produces Kasuri and Omeshi (a kind of silk fabric used for Kimonos) fabrics using the Itajime technique.
《Yamagata Prefectural Government 》
Design Solutions for Curbing Textile Waste
This panel discussion is given in conjunction with the exhibition 'Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse,' which presents three designers’ approaches to the shockingly high human and environmental costs of textile and apparel production.
Featuring the designers Christina Kim, founder of Los Angeles–based fashion brand dosa; Reiko Sudo, director of Tokyo textile design firm Nuno; and Luisa Cevese, founder of the Milan-based home goods company Riedizioni, the conversation is moderated by Matilda McQuaid, Deputy Curatorial Director and Head of Textiles at Cooper Hewitt. Inspired by ancient traditions of reuse and a respect for scraps as repositories of materials, labor, and creativity, each designer has developed innovative solutions for curbing textile waste.
Nuno & Reiko Sudo: Kibiso Lost and Found
This video is featured in the exhibition 'Scraps - Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse,' on view at Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum September 2016–April 2017.
Learn more about Nuno, Reiko Sudo, and Scraps at cooperhewitt.org/channel/scraps.