Aubervilliers -- Authentic Paris Just Beyond the Paris City Limits
Finding the Paris of yesteryear is getting harder in many ways. A look at great old books such as VANISHING FRANCE (now long out of print but a real classic if you can find it -- came out in the '70s) gives you a taste of the good, the bad and the pungent, but if you go just a bit beyond the city limits, still on the same ol' RATP/CIF public transportation system, you can find small family shops, public baths, active churches and other places of worship (rare in France, which is now the world's most secular country) and lower prices.
I visited a city Centre de Santé which has a specialist I like, so for free or a low price, I get health and counseling services as needed, including dental care if I choose.
Happy that I was not uncomfortable in the typical late August heat, as this has been a mild Summer, I walked toward the 170 bus, one of the first which ran on natural gas, much quieter and cleaner. Not perfect, but an improvement over diesel and other fuels. (France is still far from green -- I found it very backward when I first came here and still do in many ways.)
Aubervilliers is still poor and very polluted, let's be frank. It's vibrant and safe, however, and any shopping, dining or even sightseeing you might want to do in Paris, you could do some of it here, with a lot less impact to your finances. I've had lunch at the St. Christophe brasserie behind the old church you see here briefly -- the working person's fixed price lunch was about five USD three years ago and had two courses, bread, tap water and a dessert. Remember, if you like wine, ask for a pichet de rouge, (or blanc, or rosé for example) and see what they have. Often it's a better quality wine someone did not finish and they sell it for a fraction of the bottle price.
A tramway and métro line connecting Paris better is underway. If you're thinking of living and working in Paris, consider places to live in the petite couronne (little crown) and spend less.
copyright 2013 Lisa B. Falour, B.S., M.B.A. all rights reserved
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La majorité des journalistes dans le monde ont choisi de développer leur sujet sur des thèmes polémiques et sensationnels : violence, guerre, criminalité. Mais tous ces faits ne représentent que 1 % de notre monde et de ses habitants, en oubliant les 99 % restant dont on ne parle jamais.
J’ai choisi de visiter chaque pays de la planète et de les filmer pour vous les présenter en format Haute définition mais de manière brute, sans musique, sans commentaire. Simplement, la réalité dans toute sa vérité. Ainsi, vous pourrez vous faire votre propre idée sur le monde dans lequel vous vivez.
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Wetlands Near Paris, France
copyright 2012 Lisa B. Falour, B.S., M.B.A. all rights reserved LISA, INC. (EURL) cutecatfaith.com
Water was key to the Cistercian abbey. This is L'Abbaye de Maubuisson near Paris, France, and is in the town of Saint-Ouen L'Aumône, which is accessible from Paris by train, bus or automobile. It's very close.
Abbey churches were not for public use except for perhaps on certain festival days or pilgrimage events. They were reserved for clergy and the aristocracy. This abbey housed the Order of Saint-Benoît, founded in the 6th century, which based itself here after Queen Blanche of Castille founded this place in the very early 13th century. Literacy was rare, and often, the only way to learn to read and write was via the Church.
The above-mentioned Order spent much of their time codifying things, many of which became the bases for Medieval law.
The abbey interior (Gothic style) features temporary modern art installations and exhibitions, free of charge, and the lovely grounds have some permanent modern art installations. La Grange-Aux-Dîmes is here and appeared to be a huge stone barn, but we did not go in. This abbey was very active for over 200 years and at its peak housed about 120 people. It was a residence for high-born girls, a princely residence, and a royal necropole (burial place). A small staff is on hand here to answer your questions (in French) and there are some books and other materials available for sale. There is a free toilet. Since no food or drink is sold here, bringing a picnic would be a good idea. The grounds are extensive and very peaceful. The wetlands here are managed and studied, planted with some experimental flora. If you like Cistercian abbeys, there are many around Paris, and this place is an example of someplace interesting, beautiful and green you can visit in less than 10 or 15 minutes from the city itself. All around Paris, there are hundreds of places of interest, many accessible very easily via public transportation. I am available as a private guide or can help you plan your visit, facilitate your business activities here, or even settle in this country.
Où partir ? Comment choisir sa destination !
Où partir ? Comment choisir sa destination ?
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paris chatelet
I am extremely fortunate to find a parking space bang in the centre of Paris. This is Chatelet with the Pompidou centre where I used to hang out as a student. There is also a brief visit to Rue Saint Denis which is the red light area but there are no prostitutes to be seen in this film because in the first place it is a Sunday morning and I would expect that there are all in church, secondly because I would not film them anyway because they probably would not like it and thirdly this is the bottom end of the street and they hang out in the top end.
Other than that one can also see some other things in this area. Or something like that.
Paris Pont de Bir-Hakeim Walk Tour HD (1080p 60fps)
Here's a first person view on walking along the Pont de Bir-Hakeim bridge in Paris, France. The place will give you a very good view of the Eiffel Tower and La Seine river.
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104 (Paris, France Arts Center)
Located at 104, rue d'Aubervilliers in Paris, France, this huge building complex used to be the city mortuary. Despite scandal and accusations of corruption and wrongdoing, it's become a successful, vibrant asset to some Eastern Paris neighborhoods, over by La Villette.
A rather functional, nondescript area full of atypical skyscraping apartment towers and blocks (usually forbidden by Parisian building codes and city planning), this contains numerous art exhibition spaces, shops (including an EMMAUS charity shop -- thrift shops are rare in France, I've found, and this is the only one I know of anywhere in Paris -- even second-hand, antiques shops seem to be disappearing except for in a few places), the Café-Caché restaurant and the pizza truck shown on this clip, rehearsal spaces for dance, theatre and acrobatics enthusiasts, a free book exchange, et cetera. We paid seven euros to see the Coeurs Brisés traveling art exhibition, part of the Museum of Broken Hearts in Croatia, and the ticket entitled us to the other installations, too. We spent over two hours wandering around in here.
The big white wall with steps is a potential photo op, and a man photographs his son under the I Am Free neon sign with a pair of wings painted there. A carpet of apples and some other curiosities, a labyrinth of corrugated cardboard in an enormous below-ground gallery (children were running around in there, enjoying it), another labyrinth in total darkness save for some weird noise machines and hundreds of little artificial flower fiber optic thingies (hard to describe, but oddly beautiful), a juggling workshop, a dance troupe, people buying French-language books, some strange installations of disturbing photos and sound pieces based on worms, including a piece of wormwood-in-the-making were some of the things we saw.
Paris is cheapest in January, and the sales start mid-month, but the weather is not pleasant! It's cold, wet and dark! Actual snow in Paris proper is fairly rare, but as I type this, the Greater Paris (Ile-de-France) region is on orange alert for verglas (glare ice, black ice).
January is also, statistically, the suicide month, so an afternoon spent in the former pompes funèbres city facility seemed à propos, as was the broken hearts theme of the traveling exhibition. If it's coming to a city near you, contact them well in advance to make a donation if you like! And may your heartaches be few ...
copyright 2013 Lisa B. Falour, B.S., M.B.A. all rights reserved cutecatfaith.com
Cheap Clothes in the Montreuil Market (Paris, France)
My spouse insists Montreuil is Paris. He was born there, so I don't argue. When he was born there, Montreuil was in the Paris 75 postal code, but some years later, it was redesignated to the 93 postal code, which puts it in the Seine-Saint-Denis département. Whatever -- it's on public transportation and you can get there easily from central Paris by bus, métro, or soon, a tramway (it looks almost ready to open).
There are lots of piles of used clothing at this market, but there are also piles of new things, all jumbled and you have to paw through them. He likes that! It's funny, because he really used to consider shopping beneath him or something. Now, he happily looks through clean trash and wore a perfectly good leather jacket this day he'd found in our basement trash area -- someone had set it out to take. I remember in the Lower East Side of New York, neighbors would hang clothing they no longer wanted on the stairwell railings. I got some great stuff that way -- a lot of it was antique!
There are also lots of NEW clothes, neatly arranged, for sale in this market. Yes, some may be counterfeit, but I don't know much about that. This is a very famous and very old outdoor market which runs year 'round every Saturday, Sunday and Monday, no matter what the weather. Cash only is accepted here, and don't expect to find food for sale -- at least not stuff you can eat there. Bring water and a packet of tissues to use as toilet paper, and visit a small café, bar or restaurant in this becoming-upscale area, where the old ateliers are now pricey lofts.
A lot of items in this market are priced from one to five euros. You can see a handmade sign in this clip. There are also housewares, rugs, fabrics, some spices and other specialty food items, small appliances, books, records, furniture (most pretty battered), junk gold and silver, prints, photos, makeup, accessories, work uniforms, shoes, suitcases and caddies, and even a few bike repair guys. None of this market is covered, so dress appropriately for our changeable weather here in Paris.
copyright 2012 Lisa B. Falour, B.S., M.B.A. all rights reserved LISA, INC. (EURL) cutecatfaith.com
Avenue Jean Jaurès Paris Arrondissement 19e
Avenue Jean-Jaurès
Arrondissement 19e
Quartier Quartier de la Villette, Amérique
Début Place de la Bataille-de-Stalingrad
Fin Porte de Pantin
Au fil des siècles, la voie aujourd'hui appelée avenue Jean-Jaurès a toujours constitué une des artères principales d'entrée dans Paris par l'est. Dénommée successivement « grand chemin de Meaux », « route de Meaux » puis « rue d'Allemagne », elle porte en 1914 le nom de
«avenue d'Allemagne».
Le 31 juillet 1914, Jean Jaurès, homme politique et philosophe français, fortement opposé à ceux qui poussent à la guerre, est assassiné à Paris. Pour célébrer sa mémoire, Paris donne son nom le 19 août 1914 à l'avenue d'Allemagne, devenue donc avenue Jean-Jaurès.
C'est essentiellement une avenue commerçante, avec notamment un Monoprix, au niveau de la rue de Lorraine, ainsi qu'un certain nombre de restaurants. Également, de nombreux commerces avoisinants sont apparus depuis l'installation dans l'avenue des locaux du Cours Florent, qui accueille bon nombre de comédiens en devenir.
Depuis 2004, l'avenue Jean-Jaurès est une des premières avenues de Paris à devenir un « espace civilisé ». En effet, à la suite de deux référendums locaux (1998 et 2002) organisés par la mairie d'arrondissement, les habitants ont choisi de transformer l'axe rouge deux fois deux voies en un espace où piétons, cyclistes, bus et voitures cohabitent davantage : mi-2006, l'avenue Jean-Jaurès est devenue une voie avec une file entrante dans Paris et une file sortante. Le résultat pratique est un embouteillage quasi permanent particulièrement sensible porte de Pantin.
F1 -- An Inexpensive Option for a Hotel Near Paris, France, Overlooking a Cemetery!
copyright 2011 Lisa B. Falour, B.S., M.B.A. all rights reserved LISA, INC. (EURL) cutecatfaith.com
The F1 motels are no-frills and are part of ACCOR Corporation, which is the Motel 6 company. This one on a street named Lenine in Saint-Denis is the best-situated and most reasonably priced one in and around Paris, France. 39 euros per night. You can take the 153 bus to Porte de La Chapelle in Paris from here and then get the métro and go where you please in Paris, or walk to the Basilica of Saint-Denis and get the 13 métro line into Paris. There is also a tramway, and two commuter railroads nearby. The 253 bus will take you to Stade de France, where you can get the RER B trains, and the tramway will take you to the RER D line in Saint-Denis.
I do not care for the RER commuter trains, however.
From CDG-Roissy Airport, you can take the 350 bus from Roissypôle, the bus station, and pay three tickets to get to Porte de La Chapelle. From there, you get off, cross the street, and take the 153 bus back North, paying a fourth ticket, into Saint-Denis. This entire journey could cost you way less than 10 euros, if you have the carnet. The stop for the F1 hotel is called Saint-Rémi. It is a slow ride but you will have lots of space for your luggage, and it is way cheaper than other ways. (No airport tax -- the 350 city bus is mostly for airport employees.)
Try to buy your bus/tramway/métro packets in tens -- a carnet -- for the best savings. I do not recommend the PARIS VISITE transit passes they sell to tourists. The bus drivers carry cash, but do not expect them to break a large bill. If you buy on the spot, you get gouged -- nearly two euros per ticket. Really, try to get someone to mail you a carnet in advance. (If you are lucky, you MIGHT find a place at the airport to sell you one . . . ) Otherwise, they charge you an inconvenience fee.
I do not recommend Orly Airport. It is very far away, and there is no direct link to Paris. It is about 50 km from the City, and a taxi ride will ruin you. Or at least be a horrendous waste of money you will soon regret.
The cemetery of Saint-Denis is not particularly pretty, but cemeteries in France are interesting to visit, in general.
The first Sunday of each month, many cultural sites in France are free. Get there early, though -- it's crowded!